• cosmicfrog
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  • Name Paul Markham
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How do you report troublemakers?
HemiPriest wrote:
However is there an easier way to report problem people? Nothing prevents him from creating a new email and rejoining. 



I've noticed a BUNCH of new members with 1 or 2 posts. All of them want Ian back. I don't know why he left. Maybe he got a better offer elsewhere. In broadcast, people move around a lot. That's just the way it is.
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Cheap paint job
Narwal wrote:
Sorry, but I think it looks terrible. So obviously a home job. If you even slightly care spend a few bucks and go with a rattle can job or wrap the car.  Flat anything on a whole car just looks trashy.



Nearly every spray bomb job I've seen looks mottled. Roller paint jobs generally look pretty decent and last longer under severe weather like we get around here. As for black, that's a matter of taste. I guess I just don't have your fashion sense. Black isn't the only color out there, I just prefer it.
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Cheap paint job
I paint my cars and trucks an easier and cheaper way than with spray bombs. I use a roller. Granted, they aren't show cars, but they look pretty decent anyway. In 1988 through the early 90's, all the manufacturers went with a new paint process that didn't require as much prep work. By the early 90's they found out it really DID require more prep work as the paint started falling off most cars and trucks. That's why ou see large spots of paint missing off older cars. 

I had a Plymouth that had no paint on the top when I got it. Originally green, it had been primered but never repainted. $40 worth of paint and rollers and brushes from Rural King and a couple of hours and it looked pretty decent.
sundance4.jpg 

   I don't care for chrome and black is just fine with me.
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Super Power Durability?
If, and it's a BIG if, the owner can control the right foot, the huge output engines can last as long as the more mundane ones. The problem comes when the owner who takes it easy and only takes the power up occasionally lets someone else who THINKS they know what they're doing get behind the wheel. Like the video a few years ago where the owner of a brand new Mustang lets his 10 or 12 year old son behind the wheel. The kid promptly starts it in gear somehow and drives the brand new car through the garage and out the back wall.

A friend has his fathers tri-power Pontiac that dad bought new. The intent was to race it but it mostly sat with light street use. He talks about restoring it but probably will be like his dad and never get to it. It still runs and drives just fine. The tin worms are getting to it, but the riginal drivetrain is still intact. Even the priginal clutch plate.
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Salvage yard build.
I know a lot of times, the different shows will visit a salvage yard to get certain parts for a project. However, these shows often put a bunch of expensive parts or use high tech tools to build the build. How about a budget friendly build using all salvage parts for the build. When I ran a yard, we built several cars out of what was laying around. Start with a car and title and build it. Drivetrain from a roll over, front end parts from a rear end total, tires and wheels off another car and so on. One I wish I'd have kept was a '68 Mustang where we had a rolling shell, and not even a whole shell, and built a really nice little car that just needed a paint job to be a real looker. 
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Rear brake conversion from drums to rotors
Your truck is new enough that there is probably a kit out there to do it. The disc install isn't bad but the parking brake change over can be a bit of a chore. You will probably need to change your master cylinder too. Cost will be your limiting factor.
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Engine mounts
You'll have to fabricate your own mounts as well as either use a Torqueflite transmission or make an adaptor to mount to the Ford transmission. Usually, it's easier to use a transmission that matches the engine than make an adaptor plate. If it was a Chevy small block, there are all kinds of adaptors out for that. Over the long run, it would probably be easier to get a Ford engine to go in it. A lot depends on what was in it originally and what year you have. Pre-fuel injection is fairly easy.
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What are your top 10 movie cars of all time?
Okay, I'm a bit different. I've never watched any of the street racing movies like Fast and Furious, Need for Speed or even the remake of Gone in 60 Seconds. Street racing is not drag racing. I worked too many accidents where someone was driving way too fast.

My top 10?

Burt Reynolds big block Fords in Gator and White Lightning

Robert Mitchum's '57 Ford in Thunder Road.

The Bluesmobile from the first movie.

The first Eleanor from the early 70's "Gone in 60 Seconds".

The Satanmobile from "The Car".

The Aston Martin from Goldfinger.

The Lotus from "For Your Eyes Only". Especially the theft deterrent device.

The AMC AMX from "The Man with the Golden Gun". 

The Toyota convertible from the same movie. I forget the model name.

The Mustang from "Bullit".
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Paramount Network?
I was wondering about that as well. Then again, I remember when Spike was The Nashvile Network. All the other car shows have migrated to channels I can't get so at least these will stay here.
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Show Content
Too much of what the shows do assume the viewer has deep pockets. I'd like to see more budget builds. I have a bunch of gearhead friends and not one has a high dollar plasma cutter. How about one of the shows doing an episode on cheap tricks to get common jobs done.
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Show your Mopar!!! Old or New, Built or Bought...
Currently, the only Mopar I have is a Plymouth Sundance. It's not much but it got 32 mpg the last time I filled it up.
sundance4.jpg 

The paint job on top cost me nearly $10 but I think it came out nice. I still have some paint and one roller left.[biggrin] Now, over the years, I've had a BUNCH of Mopars. 1952 B3PW Power Wagon, 1954 Dodge Coronet (Hemi of course), a 1977 New Yorker Brougham that I (ahem) modified a little bit, and nearly lost my license in, a Trailduster with a big block and so on. I drove a 1961 Plymouth Valiant in school and would dearly love to get another one. 
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AWD brake upgrade
HemiPriest wrote:
I’m 40 years old, not an idiot kid. I know precisely why I want the Brembos. My car weighs nearly two and a half tons and I want to know I can stop safely as I make power upgrades. It handles well for a big car but has nothing on my old Mustang. I have the ONLY brake upgrade available to an AWD RT. Powerstop rotors and brakes. The pursuit package on the cop cars have larger rotors on the rear only but switching to those larger rotors would cause an imbalance between the front and rear brake bias that my car has, as you apparently are aware of as well. Seriously do you think I haven’t done the research? I understand the necessary inner wheel clearance that it also entails. I also know that as an AWD car I can’t just swap out my spindles from an SRT in order to bolt on the bigger stoppers. AWD cars also have a different offset then RWD cars so the spindles won’t fit the ass end either. Unless I want to swap out a lot more parts. Modern Mopar’s before 2015 are easier to program and I know how to set the electronic speedo for whatever wheel and tire size I run. It’s also how I managed to scrape as much potential as possible with bolt ons out of the 345 cubes I have. 13.8 @ 101mph is ok but when my power train warranty is up that’s when the real fun will start and I build the bottom end for a nice positive displacement blower. So there you go, that’s why I need better brakes. If you feel the need to explain simple concepts to kids I’m sure there is a ricer forum out there where you would be a king. I asked for constructive ideas not remedial automotive trivia.


The the pics are from my non SRT car. I don’t know much about cars (😂) but I somehow figured out how to unlock the SRT pages. When I first unlocked them it was only pushing 360 of the 370 advertised horses. Then I tuned 



I never said you were "an idiot kid". These types of forums are a good place to start looking for someone trying to learn. I wish something like this was around back in the 60's when I was in training. You said yourself you've looked around trying to find information. I deal with engineers all day at work. Little details make a big difference. I posted what I did for someone else looking for brake information. 

If you unlocked the pages, that's impressive. How did you do it? I'm always looking to learn tricks on the new stuff. When I'm in the old curmudgeon home gumming my gruel, I'll still be willing to learn. Maybe something to make my wheel chair go faster to chase the nurses. One never knows
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2002 4.7 grand cherokee. gas mialage
The 4.7 was designed for torque. That sort of limits your mileage. I had the same year and model Jeep as you and it got fair but not great mileage. I did a tune up that the first two owners had neglected (170K on the original spark plugs) and that helped.If you have aggressive tread on the tires, that will hurt economy but help off road.

Standard economy tips will help, but you'll never get really good economy. Keep up on the maintenance. Plugs get forgotten. Back in the 60's, you had to change them every 6 months. Now, people leave them in there forever. Getting the ones out of my 4.7 was fun as they had tried to weld to the cylinder heads. Keep the air filter clean. Those high flow filters like K&N  do what they say they will, but I think they are a bit of over kill. Your engine will only flow as much air as it can flow. The only time they do any good is on something pulling a load at wide open throttle (WOT). A plain paper air filter changed pout every now and then does just fine. Get your suspension aligned. A front wheel with improper toe in adjustment is like dragging your foot side ways. It sucks fuel and eats tires up quick. If you're running over 35 mph or so, keep the windows closed. With the new radial compressors, the drag on the engine is less than the drag on the body of an open window. If you can run without the a/c on, it's even better. Around town it doesn't make much difference. Make sure your brakes are in good shape. A warped rotor or dragging caliper will slurp fuel like a pig.

Keep in mind that new, that Jeep got mileage in the teens. The best way to improve fuel mileage is to see your Doctor and have that lead removed from your right foot. I miss my Jeep but I was offered enough money it got for sale.
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buick straight 8
When first introduced, they were state of the art. If you're restoring the car, you want to rebuild it. While they didn't have much in the way of horsepower, they did pretty well with torque. Keep in mind that in the 1950's when V-8's were coming onto the market, the Hudson Hornets with Twin H power dominated NASCAR. The larger bore on the flat head 6 bangers put out great torque. 

If you're going the street machine route, the sky is the limit. Personally, I'd stay with the straight engine just for appearances. Some of the older engines just look good. Early Hemi engines, straight 6's and 8's, long ram V-8's and so on.
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AWD brake upgrade
First off, decide WHY you want the SRT Brembos. If it's just so you can say you have them, you can find more constructive ways to spend your money. If you're trying to build up a car for auto cross or similar and NEED bigger brakes, the only real way to to find a wrecked one and strip the entire brake system off it. Unlike older cars, you have a sophisticated ABS system and getting it to work properly will be your biggest problem. Keep in mind, larger brakes may require larger wheels. This will reduce sidewall height and give you a lower side profile. Lot's of people like that look but the ride quality suffers. If you just go with taller tires to get a better ride, it won't hold in the corners as well and your speedometer will be off. Since you have an R/T, the cops eyeballs will click when you go by and you really want your speedometer working accurately.

Without knowing what you have in mind, that's about as good as I can tell you. Personally, I'd see how to upgrade the brakes on the car I had now. Would the SRT calipers fit on the R/T mounts? will the mounts swap? Does the SRT have larger interior diameter wheels? At least ALL cars now have disc brake wheels. A salvage yard I used to run got an old Blazer in with a locked up front end. I wanted to sell the rims off it and had to use a 20 pound sledge hammer to get them off. They had used drum brake wheels and they jammed against the calipers due to a low inner curve instead of the wide curve on disc brake wheels.
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