• paulmarkham
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  • Name Paul Markham
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Too much of what the shows do assume the viewer has deep pockets. I'd like to see more budget builds. I have a bunch of gearhead friends and not one has a high dollar plasma cutter. How about one of the shows doing an episode on cheap tricks to get common jobs done.
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Show your Mopar!!! Old or New, Built or Bought...
Currently, the only Mopar I have is a Plymouth Sundance. It's not much but it got 32 mpg the last time I filled it up.
sundance4.jpg 

The paint job on top cost me nearly $10 but I think it came out nice. I still have some paint and one roller left.[biggrin] Now, over the years, I've had a BUNCH of Mopars. 1952 B3PW Power Wagon, 1954 Dodge Coronet (Hemi of course), a 1977 New Yorker Brougham that I (ahem) modified a little bit, and nearly lost my license in, a Trailduster with a big block and so on. I drove a 1961 Plymouth Valiant in school and would dearly love to get another one. 
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AWD brake upgrade
HemiPriest wrote:
I’m 40 years old, not an idiot kid. I know precisely why I want the Brembos. My car weighs nearly two and a half tons and I want to know I can stop safely as I make power upgrades. It handles well for a big car but has nothing on my old Mustang. I have the ONLY brake upgrade available to an AWD RT. Powerstop rotors and brakes. The pursuit package on the cop cars have larger rotors on the rear only but switching to those larger rotors would cause an imbalance between the front and rear brake bias that my car has, as you apparently are aware of as well. Seriously do you think I haven’t done the research? I understand the necessary inner wheel clearance that it also entails. I also know that as an AWD car I can’t just swap out my spindles from an SRT in order to bolt on the bigger stoppers. AWD cars also have a different offset then RWD cars so the spindles won’t fit the ass end either. Unless I want to swap out a lot more parts. Modern Mopar’s before 2015 are easier to program and I know how to set the electronic speedo for whatever wheel and tire size I run. It’s also how I managed to scrape as much potential as possible with bolt ons out of the 345 cubes I have. 13.8 @ 101mph is ok but when my power train warranty is up that’s when the real fun will start and I build the bottom end for a nice positive displacement blower. So there you go, that’s why I need better brakes. If you feel the need to explain simple concepts to kids I’m sure there is a ricer forum out there where you would be a king. I asked for constructive ideas not remedial automotive trivia.


The the pics are from my non SRT car. I don’t know much about cars (😂) but I somehow figured out how to unlock the SRT pages. When I first unlocked them it was only pushing 360 of the 370 advertised horses. Then I tuned 



I never said you were "an idiot kid". These types of forums are a good place to start looking for someone trying to learn. I wish something like this was around back in the 60's when I was in training. You said yourself you've looked around trying to find information. I deal with engineers all day at work. Little details make a big difference. I posted what I did for someone else looking for brake information. 

If you unlocked the pages, that's impressive. How did you do it? I'm always looking to learn tricks on the new stuff. When I'm in the old curmudgeon home gumming my gruel, I'll still be willing to learn. Maybe something to make my wheel chair go faster to chase the nurses. One never knows
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2002 4.7 grand cherokee. gas mialage
The 4.7 was designed for torque. That sort of limits your mileage. I had the same year and model Jeep as you and it got fair but not great mileage. I did a tune up that the first two owners had neglected (170K on the original spark plugs) and that helped.If you have aggressive tread on the tires, that will hurt economy but help off road.

Standard economy tips will help, but you'll never get really good economy. Keep up on the maintenance. Plugs get forgotten. Back in the 60's, you had to change them every 6 months. Now, people leave them in there forever. Getting the ones out of my 4.7 was fun as they had tried to weld to the cylinder heads. Keep the air filter clean. Those high flow filters like K&N  do what they say they will, but I think they are a bit of over kill. Your engine will only flow as much air as it can flow. The only time they do any good is on something pulling a load at wide open throttle (WOT). A plain paper air filter changed pout every now and then does just fine. Get your suspension aligned. A front wheel with improper toe in adjustment is like dragging your foot side ways. It sucks fuel and eats tires up quick. If you're running over 35 mph or so, keep the windows closed. With the new radial compressors, the drag on the engine is less than the drag on the body of an open window. If you can run without the a/c on, it's even better. Around town it doesn't make much difference. Make sure your brakes are in good shape. A warped rotor or dragging caliper will slurp fuel like a pig.

Keep in mind that new, that Jeep got mileage in the teens. The best way to improve fuel mileage is to see your Doctor and have that lead removed from your right foot. I miss my Jeep but I was offered enough money it got for sale.
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buick straight 8
When first introduced, they were state of the art. If you're restoring the car, you want to rebuild it. While they didn't have much in the way of horsepower, they did pretty well with torque. Keep in mind that in the 1950's when V-8's were coming onto the market, the Hudson Hornets with Twin H power dominated NASCAR. The larger bore on the flat head 6 bangers put out great torque. 

If you're going the street machine route, the sky is the limit. Personally, I'd stay with the straight engine just for appearances. Some of the older engines just look good. Early Hemi engines, straight 6's and 8's, long ram V-8's and so on.
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AWD brake upgrade
First off, decide WHY you want the SRT Brembos. If it's just so you can say you have them, you can find more constructive ways to spend your money. If you're trying to build up a car for auto cross or similar and NEED bigger brakes, the only real way to to find a wrecked one and strip the entire brake system off it. Unlike older cars, you have a sophisticated ABS system and getting it to work properly will be your biggest problem. Keep in mind, larger brakes may require larger wheels. This will reduce sidewall height and give you a lower side profile. Lot's of people like that look but the ride quality suffers. If you just go with taller tires to get a better ride, it won't hold in the corners as well and your speedometer will be off. Since you have an R/T, the cops eyeballs will click when you go by and you really want your speedometer working accurately.

Without knowing what you have in mind, that's about as good as I can tell you. Personally, I'd see how to upgrade the brakes on the car I had now. Would the SRT calipers fit on the R/T mounts? will the mounts swap? Does the SRT have larger interior diameter wheels? At least ALL cars now have disc brake wheels. A salvage yard I used to run got an old Blazer in with a locked up front end. I wanted to sell the rims off it and had to use a 20 pound sledge hammer to get them off. They had used drum brake wheels and they jammed against the calipers due to a low inner curve instead of the wide curve on disc brake wheels.
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One I miss.
I've had many vehicles through the years. Not many motorcycles but the times I've tried to count all the cars and trucks that I drove on the road (not counting parts cars) I kept forgetting cars. I've had somewhere around 250-300. I currently have 2 cars, one SUV and one pickup. One I miss, and I'll bet would get attention on the show was a 1952 B-3-PW. There's another show out there that built a similar truck but it was actually a pre-war Dodge WC. This one was an actual Dodge M series Power Wagon. 

PWscan1.jpg 

I owned it for three years and put maybe 200 miles on it in that time. With 5.88 gears, it would run all day at 30 mph. At 35 it began to make some bad noises and at 40 it was close to throwing a piston. It had been converted to 12 volts and non-split rim wheels were added as I've seen guys get caught when a split rim blew. I had one go on me once while I had it on slow air up. A girlfriend was in the hospital and running up huge bills so I put it on the internet for sale and within 72 hours, it was on it's way to Ohio.
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1971 Dodge Demon
In the late 60's, Chrysler actually factory installed big blocks in a few of the Valiant/Dart based cars. Maintenance was a bear, steering was a bear, keeping the rest of the drivetrain was a bear and they were only good for straight line runs down the drag strip. With modern technology, you can get a healthy small block that will pull as well as the old BB Mopars. you'll be able to steer it too.
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Katie Osborne fan club.
I was rather disappointed when Courtney Hansen left the Powerblock. Katie Osborne is a great replacement. She was a wonderful screen presence and is alluring without being lurid. 

What does everybody else think of her. Please keep it clean.
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Little old lady from...Newburgh.
Back in '73, a buddy and I was headed to a party on the west side of town. There were two lights that were popular with racers to use as start lights. We were sitting at one when an older woman in a blue, 1965 or '66 Chevy Biscayne 4 door sedan pulled up next to us. She raced her engine a few times to challenge my buddy to a race. He was running a '69 Cougar he bought with a grenaded engine. He was running a 351W that had some machine work done and it was backed up by an  FMX transmission. It was quick to say the least. 

The light turned green and we went. She pulled ahead and left twin stripes. Each time she grabbed a gear, the car would jack up on the suspension. When we got the the next light. He put the shifter in first to use the shift kit. The light turned green and she possibly beat him worse than the first time. He mentioned that maybe we shouldn't say anything to anyone about that. Of course I told everybody at school the next Monday. :-)

The following summer while I was trying to figure out what I was going to do after school, I was up at Chandler Raceway east of town. There was the blue Chevy running in the ET class. I started talking to the driver. I asked him what he was running. He had a 427, with a TH400 that had a shift kit. 3.90 rear with positrac. I mentioned the race we'd been in with it. He got an odd look on his face. He had done two tours in Vietnam and built the car when he got home. He was still in the Reserves and when he was off for his two weeks, the car acquired some new miles. About 800 of them. It seems his mother would go looking for kids to terrorize while he was gone.
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Love the classics!
I thought Nekko got banned.
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Red Ram
You'll have a lot of conversions to do but the Red Ram (I had a '54 with the 241 Hemi) and it later became the A engine. Now, this is NOT the LA. Those came out in '67. The Red Ram used a different motor mount set up. The front mount was a brace under the water pump. There were no side mounts like later motor mounts. I seem to remember that you could converter the ignition with a 340 distributor. I think it needed minor machining. I don't remember if the Powerflite transmission uses the same bolt pattern to the back of the engine. My '54 Coronet would run 80 easily once I went with radial tires and newer style rims. 

You will need to fab up motor mounts, use a Powerflite or an adapter if the Torqeflite won't bolt up. The '54 was before pushbutton shifting. That came out after the suicide spear shifter on the '55 models. Somewhere I have a Mopar tech book that details ways to use the old "Whale" Hemi's.

Now, I'm assuming you are using a dodge engine. Chrysler and DeSoto Hemis were different engines. Plymouth didn't get a Hemi until the "Elephant" engines came out as race parts in '64 and options in '65.
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Ramcharger
I've had a couple of those through the years. My favorite was a '78 Trailduster. (Same thing but sold through Plymouth dealers) Mine was a big block. If you wanted to drop a big block in your truck, you'd need to swap the transmission too but I'll bet the frame hasn't been changed much. Just remember to get an engine, or change it, to a rear sump pan. My '78 had a worn out 400 that when I pulled it, I found the oil pan had been modified with a DBH (darn big hammer) to clear the pumpkin on the front axle. Previous parts replacers (they certainly weren't mechanics) had really done a number on it. Besides the oil pan, the plastic fuel tank had a hole melted halfway up the side from the exhaust, the LF wheel was held on by the rotors and the spindle was nearly worn through. The guy sold it with a knocking noise in the engine. Driving it home in the summer, I was roasting. I moved the heat control to cool, and opened all the windows. I mentioned that later when I found the noise and he said, "Oh, I forgot to tell you, the cable is broken and you have to shut the hot water to the heater core off by hand under the hood."

I went right through an 18 inch snow that winter after I got it. I sold it to a couple who wanted to go off roading. They managed to destroy the truck in 6 months.
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Wheel swaps
Has anybody swapped Jeep wheels with the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern on an early Ford Explorer? I seem to remember Ford had a different sized center hole. It's been years since I did a swap. I'm thinking Ford used a smaller center hole those years so fords might be tight going on a mopar but the Jeep should go on just fine. I'm getting everything ready for winter now as when it is 10 degrees, I'd rather drink hot chocolate than freeze out in the driveway.
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How do you report troublemakers?
I've seen some of his posts. I think he'll wander off somewhere eventually. I like the shows as they have a Midwestern focus rather than los Angeles. The guys actually wear their big boy pants and don't throw stuff at each other. If I want drama, the Holidays are coming up and I can head over to a relatives house.
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